I can hardly be called an inexperienced tourist. This is probably my sixth trip to Italy, and certainly my countless trip to the Mediterranean in general. It is all the more unexpected to realize that the eyes become wet at the sight of the breathtaking beauty outside the window. Our bus had just plunged into another sharp mountain turn, and behind the dense thickets of conifers on the side of the road, a panorama of the Amalfi coast appeared. We are approaching Positano.
Positano is 8 square kilometers of real Italian romance over water on rocky slopes (southern Apennines). Small colorful houses are inscribed in winding pedestrian streets that lead directly to the sea. The small village is surrounded by greenery, flowers, and the refreshing scent of lemons that are everywhere.
General information about Positano
|Location: Italy, Campania, province of Salerno|
Distances from the airport in Naples: 60 km
The best period for visiting: May – September
Area of the city: 8,65 км²
All roads lead down to the sea here. Countless shops are filled with ceramics depicting flowers and lemons, fragrant natural soap, and all kinds of artisanal souvenirs. I would like to buy everything and take Positano home with me in this way. But I restrain.
I keep circling through the narrow streets. They are filled with smiling tourists, but even this crowd did not spoil the flavor of Positano. The faces of locals are immediately visible. Smiling, tanned, dried by the sea wind, they are in no hurry. They know a lot about measured life in the south. La Dolce Vita is not a myth for me anymore. It exists.
Suddenly I go out to a square with a panoramic terrace near the beach. Here is the 13th-century temple of Santa Maria Assunta. It turns out that I have seen its dome lined with majolica in social media many times. And now i is so wonderful to come to it with my own feet.
Finally, I go down to the sea. The water is deep blue, white fishing boats are swaying calmly, the pebble beach is not yet crowded with vacationers. May is the perfect time for walking next to the water here. But I have other plans. It is 1 p.m. already, which means that the holy time for lunch in Italy has come an hour ago.
I find a place overlooking the marina at a restaurant on the beach. The meal is in full swing, someone devours immense pizzas, others lazily sip on cool white wine or Aperol. Firstly I ask for some San Pellegrino and further, I’m ordering pasta with seafood for myself. A local cat immediately sits down next with the obvious hint of helping me appreciate the taste of mussels or shrimp, not the spaghetti themselves for sure.
– This is Matilda, she is our local restaurant critic, – the tanned waiter winks at me, – just don’t treat her with dessert, she will hardly appreciate it.
– Sure, I didn’t order sweets at all.
– But you have to try our signature gelato, è delizioso! I swear.
After a couple of minutes, he places a large lemon in a small glass vase on my table. The inside of the fruit is filled with aromatic ice cream based on ice and lemon juice. A couple of tourists in white linen shirts at the table in front follow my example and also order a lemon miracle. We smile at each other. Matilda the cat smiles at the eaten shrimp. So this is what it turns out to be, the real taste of Positano.
Things to do in Positano
|Must visit : |
– walking trail of the Gods (Il Sentiero Degli Dei)
– Santa Maria Assunta (the church with a 13th-century Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary)
– Punto Reginella area, via Cristoforo Colombo and numerous picturesque streets nearby
– fish restaurants on the shore
Must eat :
– gelato al limone
– spaghetti alle vongole, fried anchovies, octopus
– the famous Limoncello liqueur
– local ceramics
– artisanal lemon soap
– Italian glass products